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This set of costumes is my first foray into historically accurate Medieval clothing for reenactment in the SCA and Adrian Empire. The time period targeted is the mid 14th century.
The guide for this costume was The Evolution of Fashion by Margot Hamilton Hill and Peter A Bucknell, specifically the 1380 Richard II drawing on page 35, although other references were used including Medieval Costume in England and France by Mary G Houston and Medieval Costume and Fashion by Herbert Norris.
Since sewing these, I have read The Medieval Tailor's Assistant by Sarah Thursfield and have identified numerous opportunities for improvement, some of which agree with practical observations I've made from wearing them. I have noted these opportunities below in the Lessons learned and Future modifications planned sections. I have also renamed the gowns to kirtles, a better representation of what they are.
I sewed the kirtle in a navy linen/rayon blend. The blend is not a historically accurate fabric but at half the cost of linen, with better drape, less wrinkling, and easier wash and dry instructions, I decided to go with the modern blend this time. At the sleeves are navy linen covered buttons.
Deviations from the pattern:
The pattern for the kirtle was created by transposing the historically accurate neckline from the Simplicity 8725 pattern onto the body in View A of the McCalls 8826 pattern. I chose to do this instead of using the Simplicity pattern itself due to the excessive fabric requirements of the Simplicity pattern, which would have created a kirtle so full and long as to not be practical for walking around.
Instead of facing at the neckline, I used a store bought single fold bias tape to face and bind it on the inside.
I had planned to replace the zipper in the side seam with buttons but due to the slight cross grain stretch of the fabric, I was able to pull this on over my head, so just sewed the side up as a regular seam.
I added a half inch ease the entire width of the sleeve and ignored the bizarre cuff directions, hemming the cuff below my wrist. I sewed 10 buttons on the sleeve seam line to simulate the buttoning in the Simplicity gown sleeve.
Lessons learned:
The back length on the McCalls pattern envelope is incorrect, it's actually 7 inches longer which was plenty for my needs. I should have double checked the front length though before I cut it out as it turns out that this is what is listed on the pattern as the back length! And that results in a front shorter than the pattern's floor length picture would imply. So if you are taller than the 5'5" to 5'6" standard height that McCalls uses, you need to lengthen the front accordingly as the pattern only allows for a 5/8" hem, unlike most patterns which give 2 inches of play in the hem.
I sewed the kirtle in a purple linen/rayon blend. The blend is not a historically accurate fabric but I once again decided to go with the modern blend. Strangely, the purple fabric is heavier than the navy fabric although both are the same blend from the same manufacturer. At the sleeves are silver buttons.
Deviations from the pattern:
The pattern for the kirtle was created by transposing the historically accurate neckline from the Simplicity 8725 pattern onto the body of View A of the McCalls 8826 pattern just like the blue kirtle.
Instead of facing at the neckline, I created bias strips from the purple fabric to face and bind it on the inside. I think this looks nicer than the store bought single fold bias as the color is an exact match.
I had planned to replace the zipper in the side seam with buttons but like the blue kirtle, I sewed the side up as a regular seam.
I added an inch ease at the top of the sleeve, tapering to the original width at the forearm. Like the blue kirtle I ignored the bizarre cuff directions and sewed 10 buttons on the sleeve seam line.
I lengthened the front by 3 inches, tapering at the sides but leaving the back as original. Although it doesn't look exactly floor length in the picture, it does just skim the ground in the front and at the sides when I walk.
Lessons learned:
The purple fabric bias strip facing the neckline needs to instead be cut straight on the grain, to prevent the stretching at the neckline that is occurring from the weight of the kirtle over the course of a day. According to The Medieval Tailor's Assistant by Sarah Thursfield, 3 cm (about 1.25 inches) facing strips cut on the straight of grain are thin enough to bend around the neckline, sleeve edge, and any openings for lacing or buttoning.
Future modifications planned:
As I progress to the next iterations of this kirtle I am considering the following changes for historical accuracy:
I sewed the sideless surcoat in a blue silk dupioni with black Chinese silk lining. At the arm openings is a blue rayon celtic weave trim.
Deviations from the pattern:
The pattern for the sideless surcoat was created by transposing the historically accurate neckline from the Simplicity 8725 surcoat pattern onto the body of the surcoat in View B of the McCalls 8826 pattern. I also dramatically cut in the arm openings to better reflect the mid 14th century style. I chose to do this instead of using the Simplicity pattern itself due to the excessive fabric requirements of the Simplicity pattern, which would have created a surcoat so full and long as to not be practical for walking around.
Instead of facing at the neckline and arm openings, I lined it completely.
Lessons learned:
Silk is a historically accurate fabric but I have since learned that the nubby surface of silk dupioni would have been considered poor craftsmanship and therefore never used.
The length needs to be extended to be the same as the kirtle in both the front and the back, this pattern is way too short plus has the back the same length as the front.
The side seams need to be taken in a few inches at the bottom of the arm openings, tapering out to the hem. This will help remove the unflattering sagging at hip level.
Future modifications planned:
As I progress to the next iterations of this surcoat I am considering the following changes for historical accuracy:
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