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This set of costumes is a good example of (1) how to create a costume from non costume patterns, (2) how to piece together different patterns to create an unique design, and (3) how a costume idea evolves over the years. This set of costumes was made over a three year period for a character in the NERO Ashbury chapter many years ago, which is why some of these patterns can't be found anymore. The character "Shalizar" is a mage, so my goal was to use the star theme. Purple Dress, Cloak, Surcoat (Overdress)
Note that neither of these patterns seems to be available anymore.
I sewed the dress in purple two way stretch panné velvet, the sleeves are lined with black two way stretch velvet. The stars are made of the same black two way stretch velvet as the sleeve lining, with the edges outlined in a silver glitter fabric paint. At the inside bottom of each sleeve is a pocket made of silver and black star patterned four way stretch velvet. Note that the two way (only) stretch of the dress fabric is a key thing: the stretch is along the horizontal axis to prevent the weight of the full length of the dress from causing the dress to lose its shape. The four way stretch of the sleeve pocket is advantageous though because it allows the pocket to be filled without distorting the outside of the sleeve too much.
The dress body was created using the bodice pattern pieces of Butterick 6555 joined at the waist to the skirt pattern pieces of Butterick 6345, with each joined piece cut as one pattern piece (i.e. there is no waist seam). This is an easy modification to make because the same number of panels is used in both patterns. The length of the skirt pattern pieces is extended to the floor, with the back pattern pieces tapering to about 4 inches longer than the front.
The stars are of gradually increasing size, with the smallest at the right chest and the largest at the center just above the back hem line. It's hard to see in the picture, but the graduated sizes helps give the sweeping wrap around star impression I wanted. They were appliquéd on by hand with the raw edges sealed by the silver glitter fabric paint, applied using the squeeze bottle the paint comes in.
The sleeve pattern I created from scratch. On the suggestion of a friend I included pockets at the bottom which are more convenient to get to than the pouches.
A small pouch is attached at the right waist to a button on the dress. A larger pouch is hanging from cording at the left waist. Hard to see? That's the point! The pouches are not part of a pattern, rather they are my own that I will be uploading soon.
Note that this pattern does not seem to be available anymore.
I sewed the cloak in a black ruche polyester (same fabric as here, just a different color), lined with heavy weight black wool. The clasp is pewter, purchased online.
Notes on the pattern: This was the second time I had sewn this cloak for myself (the first time was here) and I found that the gathering at the neckline was not conducive to heavy weight fabric, like the wool used to line this cloak. So I would only recommend this pattern (if you can actually find it) for light to medium weight fabrics.
I sewed the surcoat (overdress) in a purple polar fleece, lined with silver crepe back satin.
Deviations from the pattern: I did not put trim on, as the pattern called for. I plan to go back and put both trim and embellishments on it because it turned out so very plain.
Notes on the fabric: Yes, I know. Polar fleece is about the most unauthentic choice of fabrics for a renaissance or medieval costume. But it's warm and I needed to find a warm fabric in a hurry when I made this: I was wearing the costume outside in the winter time and even the heavy wool cloak above wasn't enough.
Notes on the pattern: One nice thing about this type of overdress is that a pocket of warm air is created in between the dress and overdress, creating more warmth than if the overdress was closely fitted.
Note that neither of these patterns seems to be available anymore.
The primary reason I made this second dress was comfort. The fabric in the purple dress is thick, which makes it very hot to wear through the summer months. I did many things differently with the second dress based on my experiences with the first.
I sewed the dress in blue two way stretch knit, the sleeves are lined with blue and gold star patterned cotton. The stars are made of gold satin, with the edges outlined in a gold glitter fabric paint. At the inside bottom of each sleeve is a pocket made of the same blue and gold star patterned cotton fabric as the sleeve lining. This time around I made the pockets of an identical fabric to the lining because I didn't like the contrasting pocket look of the purple dress. Note that the two way (only) stretch of the dress fabric is a key thing, the stretch is along the horizontal axis to prevent the weight of the full length of the dress from causing the dress to lose its shape.
The dress body was created using the bodice pattern pieces of Butterick 6555 joined at the waist to the skirt pattern pieces of Butterick 6345, with each joined piece cut as one pattern piece (i.e. there is no waist seam). This is an easy modification to make because the same number of panels is used in both patterns. This time around, I modified the neckline at the shoulders to not cut away from the neck, to provide more support for the weight of the sleeves which kept causing the off the shoulder slipping with the purple dress. I made it a size smaller than before as the stretch of the fabric allows give and take while the smaller size gives a more shapely look. I also removed the zipper from the pattern as the stretch of the fabric and open neckline allows it to just be pulled on. The length of the skirt pattern pieces is lengthened to the floor, with the back pattern pieces tapering to about 6 inches longer than the front, as I wanted a more sweeping back length this time around. The front of the dress is about 1 inch shorter than the purple dress to prevent tripping on it as I had previously experienced.
The stars are of gradually increasing size, with the smallest at the right chest and the largest at the center just above the back hem line. It's easier to see in this picture, the graduated sizes helps give the sweeping wrap around star impression I wanted. They were appliquéd on by hand with the raw edges sealed by the gold glitter fabric paint, applied using the squeeze bottle the paint comes in.
The sleeve pattern I created from scratch. This time around I made them longer and deeper, for a more dramatic look. I included pockets at the bottom which are more convenient to get to than the pouches.
A small pouch is attached at the right waist to a button on the dress. A larger pouch is hanging from cording at the left waist. Hard to see? That's the point! The pouches are not part of a pattern, rather they are my own that I will be uploading soon.
Note that this pattern no longer seems to be available anymore.
The primary reason I made this third dress was aesthetics. The fabric in the blue dress doesn't drape as well as the panné velvet and I wanted an even shapelier look. Once again, I did many things differently with the third dress based on my experiences with the first and second.
I sewed the dress in black two way panné velvet. The stars are made of silver satin, with the edges outlined in a silver glitter fabric paint. Note that the two way (only) stretch of the dress fabric is a key thing, the stretch is along the horizontal axis to prevent the weight of the full length of the dress from causing the dress to lose its shape.
The dress body was created using the bodice pattern pieces (view B) of the pattern with the part below the waist eliminated and joined at the waist to the skirt pattern pieces, with each joined piece cut as one pattern piece (i.e. there is no waist seam). This is the easiest of modifications to make. Note that for the back I used the lace overlay pattern pieces. I removed the zipper from the pattern as the stretch of the fabric and open neckline allows it to just be pulled on.
The stars are of gradually increasing size, with the smallest at the right chest and the largest at the center just above the back hem line. It's easiest to see in this picture, the graduated sizes helps give the sweeping wrap around star impression I wanted. They were appliquéd on by hand with the raw edges sealed by the silver glitter fabric paint, applied using the squeeze bottle the paint comes in.
The sleeves are unmodified from the pattern, except that the pattern uses lace and instead I used the same fabric as the dress body. If I were to make these sleeves again, I would put a ring of elastic from the point of the sleeve bottom edge to my middle finger, as the fitted sleeves start to inch up as the day goes on.
A pouch is hanging from cording at the left waist. Hard to see? That's the point! I was very exact this time around, ensuring that the length of cording was just long enough to place the star of the pouch where the star it is covering up would be. The pouch is not part of a pattern, rather it is my own that I will be uploading soon.
So you want to recreate this dress but can't find these patterns or don't feel up to all the modifications? Well, years after making these costumes, I found much to my amusement a single pattern that was released that is pretty close to all of these variations. I haven't made it, but maybe one day I will...
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