Vincenzo Costume
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Butterick 5656 Cloak
Butterick 3048    

 

Pants C

Sash A&C

Vest C

Simplicity 8615 Shirt A

 

This costume was created for a character in NEROŽ Avendale, played by a friend of mine.  The character "Vincenzo" is a gypsy, so my goal was to use lots of different colors and types of fabric.  The only fabric purchase made for this costume was the orange wool blend for the cape (at a very low price in the bargain section of Jo-Ann Fabrics), the rest came from the fabric stash.  That's a nice thing about a gypsy costume, you can use up a lot of different fabric and if you have to actually purchase some, you can pick a good quality fabric nobody else wants because of the color!

Cloak

 

I sewed the cloak in an orange coating weight wool blend, lined with navy blue crepe.  The trims are a gold metallic Chinese braid, hunter green upholstery weight piping (on the left side), and navy blue upholstery weight piping (on the right side).  The clasp is a gold button chain. 

 

Deviations from the pattern: I used piping instead of flat trim and that piping is only along the neck and front openings, not the hem.  I added the swirls of gold braid along the shoulder and chest area.  I sewed buttonholes for the button chain clasp instead of using a cord tie closure.

 

Notes on the details: I've yet to find a piping foot (one with a piping groove underneath) or zipper foot that works well for sewing on large upholstery piping, I just can't get the desired snug up against the fabric edge.  So after sewing this by machine and turning it right side out, I hand sewed both the wool and lining against the trim to get that snug look.

 

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Pants C

 

I sewed the pants in a hunter green panne velvet. 

 

Notes on this pattern: This is the second time I've sewn these pants (the first time was for a genie costume for a different friend) and the past review was that they are the most comfortable pair of pants ever worn. 

 

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Sash A&C

 

I sewed the sash in a gold metallic accordion stretch lame.  The binding is a gold metallic double fold bias tape.

 

Things to ponder: Why does single fold bias tape have two folds and double fold bias tape have three folds? 

 

Deviations from the pattern: Rather than use Velcro for the back closure, I sewed the end seams over a cut away black stabilizer (used for embroidery projects), folded over to form two layers and then covered the stabilizer with the gold bias tape.  Four eyelets on each side laced with a black shoelace provides both a more solid closure and the ability to deal with weight gains and losses without causing the fabric to stretch too much.  I also sewed the side seams over the stabilizer, folded over to form three layers and then covered the stabilizer with the gold bias tape.  This enabled the sash to keep it's height better, since the accordion lame would crush down easily.

 

 

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Vest C

 

I sewed the vest in a sky blue stretch velour, lined with hunter green flagging.  The trims are a navy blue and gold metallic Celtic flat trim (on the right side) and a purple velvet flat trim (on the left side). 

 

Deviations from the pattern: I embellished the front of both sides with flat trim, a different one on each side.  On the left side I made a 2 inch grid of the purple flat trim where the top and bottom of each diamond formed runs parallel to the grain/nap line.  On the right side I made running rows 2 inches apart of the blue flat trim where they run parallel to the grain/nap line as well.

 

Notes on the details: To prevent the stretch velour from buckling against the non stretch trim used, I backed velour with cut away black stabilizer (used for embroidery projects) and then cut back to near the edge of the trim after sewing.

 

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Shirt A

 

I sewed the shirt in a purple shantung.  The trims are a gold metallic cord and navy blue piping.. 

 

Deviations from the pattern: I embellished the front ruffles with gold cord hand sewn along the edge with invisible/nylon thread.  On the cuff ruffles I sewed the blue piping and then couched the gold cord in the ditch with invisible/nylon thread.

 

Notes on this pattern: The pattern creates a neck that is far too tight, so I didn't bother putting a button at the top since I knew the friend wearing this would not want to button it up to the top anyway.

 

 

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